"a quest for excellence"

Alaska to Kathmandu

Seth Ostrowski, USA   

When I graduated from the University of Alaska Anchorage in December of 2007, I realized that I had yet to do a single internship. Looking online, one of the first sites I found was Internship Nepal; but seeming too good to be true and questioning its authenticity, I moved on. Upon further research, I was unable to find any internships for post graduates such as myself and thus I returned to Internship Nepal. After inquiring with some of the previous interns from the program via email and along with communicating with Nardev himself, my skepticism was easily pushed aside and I signed up.
When I first arrived in Kathmandu, one of the first things I thought was, "Maybe five months was too long." But as I was welcomed into the Pandey home all worries simply melted away. When I first started work I was at an economics magazine called "New Business Age Nepal" I was part of a team put together to help put a sister youth magazine, "Infotiser" that had since been discontinued due to the cost of paper, on the internet. However, through no fault of "New Business Age" the project had to be pushed back indefinitely and so I was let go from that position and was without a job.
Nardev, quick to respond to my needs as always, soon sent me over to a human rights group called SAHARA, who had just recently put in a request for a photographer, which happened to be my primary interest when I came here anyway. After finding out that I would be in Kathmandu for five months, SAHARA Group decided that the project was possible and they let me on the team. Here I will mention that the longer you stay in Kathmandu the better. More volunteer options will be available to you because organizations will be able to invest more in you and thus able to get more projects done; as well as the fact that there is no such thing as too much time in Kathmandu. But anyway, together, my boss Saumitra and I designed a plan to document the life of street children here in Kathmandu and to host an exhibition near the end of my stay, to showcase the work and create awareness of the situation.
Uncertain as to how to begin such a daunting task, the likes of which I have never done before, I got in contact with one of Nardev's friends who runs a mobile food unit for underprivileged people as well as street kids. By following him around Kathmandu on a bicycle, I was exposed to areas where the street children hung out and thus could begin work of my own. For the first month I would walk to these areas without my camera and would simply observe; watching them and making my presence known. Eventually they started to come over to me and talk with me, and despite their poor English and my non-existent Nepali we somehow still managed to make it work.
As the kids began to trust me more I started taking pictures and it was around this time that a fellow intern from Internship Nepal was brought onto the SAHARA team to help with a movie documentary for the exhibition. Through Nardev's friend of a friend, we were able to get a hold of a camera as well as access to an editing studio. I cannot emphasize enough how crucial Nardev's contacts are to this program. After a while, both the movie and the collection of photos were finished and it was time to prepare for the exhibition.
We held the event at a nearby restaurant and had 80 to 100 attendees. It was inaugurated by Ms. Bindra Hada Bhattrai, the Secretary of Ministry of Women Children and Social Welfare in Nepal, and even some of the press came to cover the event. The exhibition stayed up for three days and was taken down. The next step is for SAHARA to purchase their own mobile display boards and take the whole show out to rural Nepal, where most of the street children come from. Educating the children as well as their families on the situation in the streets, and thus hopefully they will be less likely to jump to the streets of Kathmandu as a first solution to their problems.
I cannot think of a better place to do an internship than in Kathmandu. This place is a volunteer's playground for teachers, journalists, photographers, medical students and any other number of options this program has to offer; there are so many stories and so much work to be done that you will never get bored. This along with the fact that this nation is still growing and developing every day means that the fruit of your labors are quickly manifested before your eyes and are always rewarding. My only word of advice, aside from the longer you stay here the better, is patience. There are many things in Nepal that are not as convenient or reliable as some may have become accustomed to, and this along with the numerous cultural differences and misunderstandings can be quite challenging. However, if you just take it all in and accept it, I know that volunteering in Nepal will be an unforgettable as well as life altering choice.
E-mail: spostrowski@gmail.com

 

My Experience in Nepal

– Steve Francois   

As a student in political science, the chance to experience working in a foreing country is priceless. To be able to do it in Nepal was wonderful and will help troughout my life.

My internship in human rights with Sahara group gave me the opportunity to work with a NGO that was directly connected to groups with higher risks of poverty. I was able to see the work done in a orphanage and a women shelter. I was also helping in the preparation of discussions on the political future of the country and met people from different backgrounds, countries that also enrich my experience. As a intern, I got to experience first hand what are the need in a organization but also share and keep the knowledge that was past to me. This experience help me built a solid work ethic and enhanced my adaptation skills for the work I do back in Canada where great communication skills and autonomy are important assets for employers.

The flexibility of my work with my NGO gave me time to visit also Kathmandu area and visit various area of the country. To have the chance to live with a nepali family was also a important of my experience. I was able appreciate more my experience and connect with the people.

Email: sfrancois84@ hotmail.com

 

Interesting Experience with Internship Nepal

– Crystal Street   

The opportunity to work as a journalist in a foreign country is a priceless experience, and in the proper environment it can alter career paths and life perspectives. My experience with Nardev Pandey at Internship Nepal was interesting and I was able to learn about myself as a journalist, my needs to produce relevant work, my approach towards working in a foreign country and the cultural differences that exist between different media markets.

The editorial staff at NepalHumanRightsNews.com allowed me the flexibility to adjust the program to suit my style of journalism and my needs as an older student. Living with my host family also opened cultural doors which may have remained closed had I approached the project as an outsider staying in the tourist locations of Kathmandu. The food was wonderful and the family's habits and interactions were refreshing and amusing! The local experience allowed me to blend in with my environment and gave my work a different perspective.

While working in a foreign environment takes some adjustments, the Internship Nepal program made those adjustments feasible and gave me an experience that will shape my approach to documentary photography when I return to America. The connections I've made within this community will also allow me to return as a freelancer at a future date and will make future work in Nepal much more powerful and relevant to the people and the issues of this country.

Patience is need in classroom

–Brian Wraight, USA  

When I came to Nepal I had never stood in front of a class and tried to teach before. For those of you in the same situation fear not. That's not to say teaching is easy (you quickly learn how difficult it is not only to create your own lesson, but to teach that lesson in a clear and effective manner) but it is not necessary that you have teaching experience in order to volunteer for Internship Nepal's teaching program. For those of you with teaching experience, you know that one of the best attributes you can possess in the classroom is patience—a lot of patience. In a Nepalese classroom, you'll need twice as much patience.

If you are going to be teaching in a village you must always keep in mind that these kids can barely speak/understand English. You will have to teach on the most fundamental level. Choose your words very carefully. Be as economical and straight-forward as possible with your speech. And most importantly, speak slowly. If you think you already are speaking slowly, slow it down some more. And if you're from America be prepared for some added confusion from the students because their text books teach them British English. Also, you will find that the younger students in the village are rather unruly. Though I could never bring myself to do it, it is perfectly acceptable to give them a little smack on the back if they can't shut their traps. Without this discipline for the younger classes it will be next to impossible to get them to listen to what you’re saying. As for the older classes, they are generally attentive but, if they do get a little out of hand, raising your voice will be sufficient enough to get them to settle down.

If you are going to be teaching in Kathmandu or another of Nepal's major cities it should be significantly easier for you. After teaching in the village for 2 months, I taught in Kathmandu for a few weeks and it felt like I was on vacation. I could speak at my normal pace, whereas in the village I could barely speak in complete sentences. And in Kathmandu the younger kids actually listened to me. Furthermore, corporal punishment is not only unnecessary in Kathmandu but, at least at the school at which I was teaching, it is against school policy. So if you're looking to start from the bottom and work your way up with students, go to the village. But if you'd like to teach on a higher level and have an easier time doing it, then stay in an urban area.

While it might sound like I'm promoting the teaching experience in Kathmandu I should be fair to the village at which I taught. If I had it to do all over again I would, without a doubt in my mind, go to the village. I say this because life in the village has, in my opinion, so much more to offer culturally than life in Kathmandu. And to be honest, I don't think I'll look back on my experience here and think primarily of my time in the classroom. Certainly I'll remember all of my students, but at some point I realized that teaching takes a back seat to connecting with these kids outside of the classroom, spending time with them, making them laugh, and experiencing their way of life. At the end of my time in the village I realized that the kids had taught me more than I could have ever taught them. I know that sounds a little corny (okay, A LOT corny) but it's true. Living in the village really does affect you in a way that Kathmandu is incapable of. So even though it's ten times harder to actually teach in the village, and granted that it takes a little while to adjust to living conditions in the village (just bring a flashlight for those late-night diarrhea dashes to the outhouse and you'll be all set) it's definitely a more worthwhile experience. But that's just my opinion.
E-mail: wraightb@yahoo.com
 


My teaching experience in Nepal

–Haresh Tilani, Singapore   

My experience in Nepal was eye-opening, to say the least. Things kicked off with a short stay with the very hospitable Mr. Nardev, his wife and his 2 adorable children. The first 2 days were spent sightseeing before the finally starting what I had come to Nepal for – teaching in the village at Aserdi, Palpa District.

I will admit that the first day in the village was somewhat awkward. So if you are considering teaching there, just be prepared for a lot of staring and giggling. I had already braced myself before we reached the village, and I armed myself with what I found out to be the best solution for the situation – a big smile. Many of the villagers are simply shy, and that is all it takes to overcome their initial shyness to bring out their friendly nature. Of course, making an effort to learn some Nepali and actually speaking it made the whole atmosphere even more enjoyable. They chuckled and laughed when I pronounced some words wrongly, but that just made them less embarrassed to try and speak English, during which I willingly returned the favor.

At the Poorna Jyoti Boarding School in Aserdi (i.e. the school that you will teach in), the subjects are taught in English. Thus, most of the students have basic knowledge of the language, while those in Class 4 and up are fluent. However, the main difficulties I faced arose when I was teaching Classes 1 – 3. While Classes 2 – 3 had some problems understanding me initially, I eventually slowed down my speaking and increased my patience, which helped tremendously.

Unfortunately, I felt practically helpless teaching the students in Class 1. They did not have a sufficient grasp of English, and even the teachers teach them the language by explaining most words to them in Nepali. So I was stuck. I remember this one time when they kept talking to me in Nepali. I repeatedly told them that I couldn’t speak any Nepali, but the problem was that I was telling them in English. So I went home and asked the older kids to teach me how to say ‘I cannot speak Nepali’ in Nepali. I learnt it without much of a problem, and tested it the next day. So the next time one of the students told me something in Nepali, I busted out my newly-learnt phrase: “Moi leh Nepali jandi no!” The response: “Moi leh English jandi no!” I was speechless.

Teaching was nonetheless only one aspect of my time in the village; I had so many other wonderful experiences interacting with the people of the village before and after school. Be it playing cricket or table tennis (albeit on a make-shift table), walking in the forest or simply relaxing at one of the many scenic spots that can be found near the village, I learnt a lot just by chatting with the children. Many of them had never traveled outside India or even Nepal, and they asked me numerous questions about the countries that I had been to. At the same time, they answered many of my questions I had about their upbringing as well as heard their opinions on a number of general matters.

While most of you may be a little apprehensive of visiting a village on your own, rest assured that you will hardly face any real dangers. One of the reasons why I fell in love with Nepal and its people is because of their warm and welcoming nature. Of course, there are the inherent risks, but I am sure the fact that you are reading this means that you have some sense of adventure in you, and that such problems would be nothing new to you. In fact, I would encourage those of you who are considering applying to venture out on your own because the tranquility of the village, coupled with the lack of any internet or mobile phones, really gives you a lot of alone time to reflect on your experiences. I definitely did, and it made this wonderful experience all the more memorable.
Email: hareshtilani@gmail.com
 


Photo journalism with Internship Nepal

–Todd Krainin, USA   

Having been to the Kingdom of Nepal as a tourist just eight months ago, I thought I had a good idea of what to expect. Rickshaws, busy streets, sacred cows, holy sites, and all the things that I found enchanting the first time around. But from the moment I stepped off the plane, I was in for something very different. To experience Kathmandu not as a tourist, but as a photojournalist with Internship Nepal, is something much better than I could have ever guessed. 

To begin with, I wouldn’t have trusted Internship Nepal had its chairman, Nardev Pandey, not advertised on the website of the National Press Photographers Association. That gave him instant credibility. Lauren, his liaison from America, gave me another boost of confidence by answering all of my questions to the fullest. I wanted to know everything before I left: Where will I live? What’s the job like? Where will I eat? Will there be toilet paper? Once I was satisfied with her replies, it was my love of Nepal that compelled me to go. I knew from experience that I had little to fear from the ongoing civil war. But I was still concerned about making a major commitment so far away, and with people who I was just getting to know.


If you’ve read this far, then you may be having the same questions and doubts that I had only a couple of months ago. Maybe you’re apprehensive about the political situation in Nepal. Or maybe it’s just the toilet paper. Whatever the case may be, let me tell you a bit about my life here; about why I’m having the best time of my life, despite living in the poorest, most politically backward country in Asia.


I live in the home of Nardev and Sila Pandey. It’s three-storey apartment building on Anamnagar, a busy street in downtown Kathmandu. My room is clean and cozy, just big enough for one. The shared ‘bathroom’ is nothing more than an outhouse, situated a few steps from the front door. It’s a bit stinky and has only cold water, but Kathmandu is warm even in February, so it gets the job done.


 I never lack for food, as Sila is a talented and prolific cook. She stuffs me constantly with savoury Nepali meals, with as much or as little spice as I like. Seconds are mandatory, and if I don’t say ‘pugyo’ (“enough!”) about six times in a forceful voice, I am likely to end up with third and fourth helpings on my plate – not necessarily a bad thing. Nardev and Sila have two adorable, if rambunctious kids living here. To them I am “kaka,” which sounds terrible in English, but in Nepali it means “uncle”. They are cute enough to land roles in a Bollywood film.


About the safety situation. Despite the ongoing civil war that has claimed over ten thousand lives in the last ten years, and despite some dire warnings from the U.S. Consulate, I have found most of Nepal to be safe for foreigners. When there is an outbreak of violence, it is usually outside the city lines, and it is almost always targeted at government facilities, not civilians. Religious fundamentalism is not a problem in the world’s only Hindu kingdom. If your idea of Nepal is something like Iraq, think again. Kathmandu is a far cry from Baghdad, or even Tehran for that matter; westerners are not the focus of anyone’s hatred here. And crime isn’t a problem at all. I feel at least as safe in Kathmandu as I did in my previous homes in India, Los Angeles and New York.


Far from being the focus of discontent, visitors to Nepal are cherished by the local population. An oft-repeated saying in Nepal is “The guest is a god” – which is an exaggeration, to be sure, but only a slight one. From the moment I left the airport, I’ve been subject to the kind of generousity and hospitality for which Nepal is rightly famous. Kind strangers, eager to befriend a foreigner, are always offering to drink chiya with me in the public square. When I say “Mero desh America ho” (I’m from America), I can see a warm, misty glow wash over their faces. To the overwhelming majority of Nepalis, the Western world remains a beacon of freedom. The America of Nepal’s imagination is the immigrant’s dream of a country where the roads are paved with rupees and the beaches are crowded with bikini-clad Hilton sisters. Of course my country is a far cry from a Bollywood director’s vision ! of Shangri-La. But in comparison to Nepal, whose political and economic situation is on perpetual life-support, these myths about America are both understandable and not altogether false.


Further rewards come to the traveller who makes an effort to be involved in the culture. I do my best to learn and to speak as much Nepali as I can. Even when I mispronounce a word or two – which is usually the case – locals like to see that a foreigner is not quite as foreign as they’d first thought. Another mark in my favor is my ability to sing an embarrassingly large number of Bollywood tunes. Needless to say, this makes me a big hit on long, bumpy bus rides through the Himalayas.


This odd combination of civil war and civility make present-day Nepal an ideal place for an adventurous photojournalist like myself. On the one hand, it’s a safe place for a foreigner to be. But if you’re looking for trouble, it is there for the taking. Just this week I’ve photographed three political protests for the Kathmandu Post and Nepalhumanrightsnews.com. One of the demonstrations turned violent, with the police firing water cannons and thrashing civilians with bamboo sticks. I documented this protest willingly and at my own risk. It was a good thing that I had some help. A knowledgable guide from the Post was at my side at all times, translating Nepali for me, and when necessary, telling me when and where to run!

 
This is part of my personality; a touch of danger is the garam masala of my professional life. But if that’s not your cup of chiya, if you’re understandably terrified of political violence, then it’s easy to avoid these kinds of situations. How can Nepal be both safe and dangerous at the same time? Strange as it may sound, violence in Nepal tends to be scheduled in the form of organized protests. The newspapers and local population knows when and where things will turn sour well before it happens. Knowing this, you can easily arrange to be somewhere else when the time comes. While I’m running away from bursts of tear gas in the city streets, many of my co-workers are attending football games and interviewing movie stars downtown. War or peace - the choice will be yours to make.

Such is life in Nepal. Nor does anyone expect things to get much worse. This is the way Nepal has been for the last fifteen years, and it’s the way life is likely to continue. Most everyone is used to it by now, and we all continue our lives as normally as possible.


When I’m not shooting political events, I’m photographing Nepal’s surreal blend of Hindu and Buddhist culture. My images are published every day and one of my favorite photos has already made the cover of the Post, which is read by 40,000 people each day. I work hard here – nine-hour days and six days a week are the norm – but the office is relaxed. My coworkers are highly talented and far more courageos than I am. All of us are competitive in a friendly way. I learn a lot from them, and I enjoy my time there. The photolab at the Post is one of the happiest rooms in the city because everyone is having too much fun, and we all know it.

 
On my days off, there is no end of things to do. Usually I hop on Nardev’s motorcycle, and he whisks me off to the movie theater. Sometimes we visit to ancient Hindu holy shrines and Buddhist monasteries. Or we go shopping for wood carvings at the local bazaar. I’m also looking forward to visiting Pokhara. I want to trek in the Himalayas, with up-close views of some of the world’s highest peaks. As you can tell, Nepal is such a dreary and boring place!


Understand that while I’m having the time of my life here, your mileage may vary. If you’ve never been to Nepal or India, you are in for some serious culture shock. Everything is done differently here, and I have had to relearn a lot of life’s basics from scratch. Nepal leaves a strong impression on visitors, for better or worse. Even if you’re not the type to get homesick, I promise that you will miss toilet paper and high-speed internet. Luxuries like that don’t exist. That’s why I strongly recommend that you arrive here early if you can, in order to get the feel of things.

Also I think that a woman’s experience will be different and, truth be told, not quite as good. Although Internship Nepal treats all of its interns well, Nepal itself is a man’s world. It is not a medeival country like Afghanistan, but something closer to a Victorian sensibility. Women are protected from society, and it can lead to isolation from some of the better parts of local culture. That said, I do see a lot of foreign women travelling alone here, and I tip my topi to them. I hope they’re enjoing Nepal as much as I do.

That sums up my experience here so far. Every day here with Internship Nepal has been a thrill and a challenge. This country brings out the best in me, and I know that I will curse the day that my visa expires and I am forced to leave this exciting country. Returning home to Los Angeles will probably be a disappointment, just like it was last time. Maybe I’ll go to India and visit Kashmir, instead. I hear it looks a lot like Nepal.
February 18, 2006
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