Patience is Needed in Class Room
–Brian Wraight
When
I came to Nepal I had never stood in front of a class and tried to
teach before. For those of you in the same situation fear not.
That's not to say teaching is easy (you quickly learn how difficult
it is not only to create your own lesson, but to teach that lesson
in a clear and effective manner) but it is not necessary that you
have teaching experience in order to volunteer for Internship
Nepal's teaching program. For those of you with teaching experience,
you know that one of the best attributes you can possess in the
classroom is patience—a lot of patience. In a Nepalese classroom,
you'll need twice as much patience.
If you are going to be teaching in a village you must always keep in
mind that these kids can barely speak/understand English. You will
have to teach on the most fundamental level. Choose your words very
carefully. Be as economical and straight-forward as possible with
your speech. And most importantly, speak slowly. If you think you
already are speaking slowly, slow it down some more. And if you're
from America be prepared for some added confusion from the students
because their text books teach them British English. Also, you will
find that the younger students in the village are rather unruly.
Though I could never bring myself to do it, it is perfectly
acceptable to give them a little smack on the back if they can't
shut their traps. Without this discipline for the younger classes it
will be next to impossible to get them to listen to what you’re
saying. As for the older classes, they are generally attentive but,
if they do get a little out of hand, raising your voice will be
sufficient enough to get them to settle down.
If you are going to be teaching in Kathmandu or another of Nepal's
major cities it should be significantly easier for you. After
teaching in the village for 2 months, I taught in Kathmandu for a
few weeks and it felt like I was on vacation. I could speak at my
normal pace, whereas in the village I could barely speak in complete
sentences. And in Kathmandu the younger kids actually listened to
me. Furthermore, corporal punishment is not only unnecessary in
Kathmandu but, at least at the school at which I was teaching, it is
against school policy. So if you're looking to start from the bottom
and work your way up with students, go to the village. But if you'd
like to teach on a higher level and have an easier time doing it,
then stay in an urban area.
While it might sound like I'm promoting the teaching experience in
Kathmandu I should be fair to the village at which I taught. If I
had it to do all over again I would, without a doubt in my mind, go
to the village. I say this because life in the village has, in my
opinion, so much more to offer culturally than life in Kathmandu.
And to be honest, I don't think I'll look back on my experience here
and think primarily of my time in the classroom. Certainly I'll
remember all of my students, but at some point I realized that
teaching takes a back seat to connecting with these kids outside of
the classroom, spending time with them, making them laugh, and
experiencing their way of life. At the end of my time in the village
I realized that the kids had taught me more than I could have ever
taught them. I know that sounds a little corny (okay, A LOT corny)
but it's true. Living in the village really does affect you in a way
that Kathmandu is incapable of. So even though it's ten times harder
to actually teach in the village, and granted that it takes a little
while to adjust to living conditions in the village (just bring a
flashlight for those late-night diarrhea dashes to the outhouse and
you'll be all set) it's definitely a more worthwhile experience. But
that's just my opinion.
'My teaching experience in Nepal'
–Haresh Tilani,
Singapore
My experience in Nepal was eye-opening, to say the least. Things kicked off with
a short stay with the very hospitable Mr. Nardev, his wife and his 2 adorable
children. The first 2 days were spent sightseeing before the finally starting
what I had come to Nepal for – teaching in the village at Aserdi, Palpa
District.
I will admit that the first day in the village was somewhat awkward. So if you
are considering teaching there, just be prepared for a lot of staring and
giggling. I had already braced myself before we reached the village, and I armed
myself with what I found out to be the best solution for the situation – a big
smile. Many of the villagers are simply shy, and that is all it takes to
overcome their initial shyness to bring out their friendly nature. Of course,
making an effort to learn some Nepali and actually speaking it made the whole
atmosphere even more enjoyable. They chuckled and laughed when I pronounced some
words wrongly, but that just made them less embarrassed to try and speak
English, during which I willingly returned the favor.
At the Poorna Jyoti Boarding School in Aserdi (i.e. the school that you will
teach in), the subjects are taught in English. Thus, most of the students have
basic knowledge of the language, while those in Class 4 and up are fluent.
However, the main difficulties I faced arose when I was teaching Classes 1 – 3.
While Classes 2 – 3 had some problems understanding me initially, I eventually
slowed down my speaking and increased my patience, which helped tremendously.
Unfortunately, I felt practically helpless teaching the students in Class 1.
They did not have a sufficient grasp of English, and even the teachers teach
them the language by explaining most words to them in Nepali. So I was stuck. I
remember this one time when they kept talking to me in Nepali. I repeatedly told
them that I couldn’t speak any Nepali, but the problem was that I was telling
them in English. So I went home and asked the older kids to teach me how to say
‘I cannot speak Nepali’ in Nepali. I learnt it without much of a problem, and
tested it the next day. So the next time one of the students told me something
in Nepali, I busted out my newly-learnt phrase: “Moi leh Nepali jandi no!” The
response: “Moi leh English jandi no!” I was speechless.
Teaching was nonetheless only one aspect of my time in the village; I had so
many other wonderful experiences interacting with the people of the village
before and after school. Be it playing cricket or table tennis (albeit on a
make-shift table), walking in the forest or simply relaxing at one of the many
scenic spots that can be found near the village, I learnt a lot just by chatting
with the children. Many of them had never traveled outside India or even Nepal,
and they asked me numerous questions about the countries that I had been to. At
the same time, they answered many of my questions I had about their upbringing
as well as heard their opinions on a number of general matters.
While most of you may be a little apprehensive of visiting a village on your
own, rest assured that you will hardly face any real dangers. One of the reasons
why I fell in love with Nepal and its people is because of their warm and
welcoming nature. Of course, there are the inherent risks, but I am sure the
fact that you are reading this means that you have some sense of adventure in
you, and that such problems would be nothing new to you. In fact, I would
encourage those of you who are considering applying to venture out on your own
because the tranquility of the village, coupled with the lack of any internet or
mobile phones, really gives you a lot of alone time to reflect on your
experiences. I definitely did, and it made this wonderful experience all the
more memorable.
Photojournalism with Internship Nepal
Having been to the Kingdom of Nepal as a tourist just eight months
ago, I thought I had a good idea of what to expect. Rickshaws, busy
streets, sacred cows, holy sites, and all the things that I found
enchanting the first time around. But from the moment I stepped off
the plane, I was in for something very different. To experience
Kathmandu not as a tourist, but as a photojournalist with Internship
Nepal, is something much better than I could have ever guessed.
To begin with, I wouldn’t have trusted Internship Nepal had its
chairman, Nardev Pandey, not advertised on the website of the
National Press Photographers Association. That gave him instant
credibility. Lauren, his liaison from America, gave me another boost
of confidence by answering all of my questions to the fullest. I
wanted to know everything before I left: Where will I live? What’s
the job like? Where will I eat? Will there be toilet paper? Once I
was satisfied with her replies, it was my love of Nepal that
compelled me to go. I knew from experience that I had little to fear
from the ongoing civil war. But I was still concerned about making a
major commitment so far away, and with people who I was just getting
to know.
If you’ve read this far, then you may be having the same questions
and doubts that I had only a couple of months ago. Maybe you’re
apprehensive about the political situation in Nepal. Or maybe it’s
just the toilet paper. Whatever the case may be, let me tell you a
bit about my life here; about why I’m having the best time of my
life, despite living in the poorest, most politically backward
country in Asia.
I live in the home of Nardev and Sila Pandey. It’s three-storey
apartment building on Anamnagar, a busy street in downtown
Kathmandu. My room is clean and cozy, just big enough for one. The
shared ‘bathroom’ is nothing more than an outhouse, situated a few
steps from the front door. It’s a bit stinky and has only cold
water, but Kathmandu is warm even in February, so it gets the job
done.
I never lack for food, as Sila is a talented and prolific cook. She
stuffs me constantly with savoury Nepali meals, with as much or as
little spice as I like. Seconds are mandatory, and if I don’t say
‘pugyo’ (“enough!”) about six times in a forceful voice, I am likely
to end up with third and fourth helpings on my plate – not
necessarily a bad thing. Nardev and Sila have two adorable, if
rambunctious kids living here. To them I am “kaka,” which sounds
terrible in English, but in Nepali it means “uncle”. They are cute
enough to land roles in a Bollywood film.
About the safety situation. Despite the ongoing civil war that has
claimed over ten thousand lives in the last ten years, and despite
some dire warnings from the U.S. Consulate, I have found most of
Nepal to be safe for foreigners. When there is an outbreak of
violence, it is usually outside the city lines, and it is almost
always targeted at government facilities, not civilians. Religious
fundamentalism is not a problem in the world’s only Hindu kingdom.
If your idea of Nepal is something like Iraq, think again. Kathmandu
is a far cry from Baghdad, or even Tehran for that matter;
westerners are not the focus of anyone’s hatred here. And crime
isn’t a problem at all. I feel at least as safe in Kathmandu as I
did in my previous homes in India, Los Angeles and New York.
Far from being the focus of discontent, visitors to Nepal are
cherished by the local population. An oft-repeated saying in Nepal
is “The guest is a god” – which is an exaggeration, to be sure, but
only a slight one. From the moment I left the airport, I’ve been
subject to the kind of generousity and hospitality for which Nepal
is rightly famous. Kind strangers, eager to befriend a foreigner,
are always offering to drink chiya with me in the public square.
When I say “Mero desh America ho” (I’m from America), I can see a
warm, misty glow wash over their faces. To the overwhelming majority
of Nepalis, the Western world remains a beacon of freedom. The
America of Nepal’s imagination is the immigrant’s dream of a country
where the roads are paved with rupees and the beaches are crowded
with bikini-clad Hilton sisters. Of course my country is a far cry
from a Bollywood director’s vision ! of Shangri-La. But in
comparison to Nepal, whose political and economic situation is on
perpetual life-support, these myths about America are both
understandable and not altogether false.
Further rewards come to the traveller who makes an effort to be
involved in the culture. I do my best to learn and to speak as much
Nepali as I can. Even when I mispronounce a word or two – which is
usually the case – locals like to see that a foreigner is not quite
as foreign as they’d first thought. Another mark in my favor is my
ability to sing an embarrassingly large number of Bollywood tunes.
Needless to say, this makes me a big hit on long, bumpy bus rides
through the Himalayas.
This odd combination of civil war and civility make present-day
Nepal an ideal place for an adventurous photojournalist like myself.
On the one hand, it’s a safe place for a foreigner to be. But if
you’re looking for trouble, it is there for the taking. Just this
week I’ve photographed three political protests for the Kathmandu
Post and Nepalhumanrightsnews.com. One of the demonstrations turned
violent, with the police firing water cannons and thrashing
civilians with bamboo sticks. I documented this protest willingly
and at my own risk. It was a good thing that I had some help. A
knowledgable guide from the Post was at my side at all times,
translating Nepali for me, and when necessary, telling me when and
where to run!
This is part of my personality; a touch of danger is the garam
masala of my professional life. But if that’s not your cup of chiya,
if you’re understandably terrified of political violence, then it’s
easy to avoid these kinds of situations. How can Nepal be both safe
and dangerous at the same time? Strange as it may sound, violence in
Nepal tends to be scheduled in the form of organized protests. The
newspapers and local population knows when and where things will
turn sour well before it happens. Knowing this, you can easily
arrange to be somewhere else when the time comes. While I’m running
away from bursts of tear gas in the city streets, many of my
co-workers are attending football games and interviewing movie stars
downtown. War or peace - the choice will be yours to make.
Such is life in Nepal. Nor does anyone expect things to get much
worse. This is the way Nepal has been for the last fifteen years,
and it’s the way life is likely to continue. Most everyone is used
to it by now, and we all continue our lives as normally as possible.
When I’m not shooting political events, I’m photographing Nepal’s
surreal blend of Hindu and Buddhist culture. My images are published
every day and one of my favorite photos has already made the cover
of the Post, which is read by 40,000 people each day. I work hard
here – nine-hour days and six days a week are the norm – but the
office is relaxed. My coworkers are highly talented and far more
courageos than I am. All of us are competitive in a friendly way. I
learn a lot from them, and I enjoy my time there. The photolab at
the Post is one of the happiest rooms in the city because everyone
is having too much fun, and we all know it.
On my days off, there is no end of things to do. Usually I hop on
Nardev’s motorcycle, and he whisks me off to the movie theater.
Sometimes we visit to ancient Hindu holy shrines and Buddhist
monasteries. Or we go shopping for wood carvings at the local
bazaar. I’m also looking forward to visiting Pokhara. I want
to trek in the Himalayas, with up-close views of some of the world’s
highest peaks. As you can tell, Nepal is such a dreary and boring
place!
Understand that while I’m having the time of my life here, your
mileage may vary. If you’ve never been to Nepal or India, you are in
for some serious culture shock. Everything is done differently here,
and I have had to relearn a lot of life’s basics from scratch. Nepal
leaves a strong impression on visitors, for better or worse. Even if
you’re not the type to get homesick, I promise that you will miss
toilet paper and high-speed internet. Luxuries like that don’t
exist. That’s why I strongly recommend that you arrive here early if
you can, in order to get the feel of things.
Also I think that a woman’s experience will be different and, truth
be told, not quite as good. Although Internship Nepal treats all of
its interns well, Nepal itself is a man’s world. It is not a
medeival country like Afghanistan, but something closer to a
Victorian sensibility. Women are protected from society, and it can
lead to isolation from some of the better parts of local culture.
That said, I do see a lot of foreign women travelling alone here,
and I tip my topi to them. I hope they’re enjoing Nepal as much as I
do.
That sums up my experience here so far. Every day here with
Internship Nepal has been a thrill and a challenge. This country
brings out the best in me, and I know that I will curse the day that
my visa expires and I am forced to leave this exciting country.
Returning home to Los Angeles will probably be a disappointment,
just like it was last time. Maybe I’ll go to India and visit
Kashmir, instead. I hear it looks a lot like Nepal.
February 18, 2006
For Comment And Question: www.toddkrainin.com
